‘Scotland of the East’

A watercolour painting of Shillong’s landscape by Ramkinkar Baij. Image Source: Indian Culture Portal

Shillong’s picturesque hills, verdant valleys, beautiful waterfalls and lakes, coupled with its soothing climate reminded the British colonial officials of the landscapes of Scotland and its serene weather. Thus, the city gradually came to be known as the ‘Scotland of the East’. 
 

Elephant Falls

The third stage of the Elephant Waterfalls. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

The Elephant Falls is located roughly 13 kilometres away from the Shillong city centre and is one of the most splendid waterfalls of Meghalaya. Since it cascades down in three successive stages, the local Khasi population originally referred to the falls as Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew (Three Steps Waterfalls). Later, the British renamed it as the ‘Elephant Falls’ because of a massive rock near the base of the falls that resembled an elephant. The rock, however, was destroyed during the earthquake of 1897, but the name of the waterfalls has remained unchanged over the ages. 

Although the first fall is quite wide, it remains hidden behind trees and thick foliage. The second stage of the falls is rather slim and looks inconsequential during drier months, particularly in winters. The tallest and most imposing section of the waterfalls is the third and final stage; here, the water gushes down rapidly and falls atop massive boulders at its base. The sides of the waterfalls are flanked by ferns, mosses and smaller trees. 

The Elephant Falls is a great tourist attraction and is one of the more accessible waterfalls of the state due to the well-designed flight of stairs and platforms that allow viewership of every stage of the falls. 
 

Shillong Peak

A view of Shillong from the Shillong Peak. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Located almost 10 kilometres southwards of the main city, the Shillong Peak is the highest point of Shillong, with an impressive height of 1962 metres (≈6440 feet) above sea level. Owing to its altitude, the peak is often enveloped in fog. However, the Shillong peak offers an excellent panoramic view of the city below, the Himalayas, several waterfalls and the surrounding vegetation, and even the neighbouring Bangladesh plains.

The Shillong Peak is a significant cultural and spiritual landmark of Meghalaya. According to the indigenous Khasi folklore and mythology, the Shillong Peak is the sacred dwelling place of the local deity, Lei Shyllong who protects the city. It is also believed that the peak’s springs are of holy origin as they are said to have emerged from the tears of a mother deer, and they nourish the nine major streams of the region. Every spring, an important ritual is organised in honour of the deity, Lei Shyllong, that is led by a spiritual pastor from Mylliem.

Interestingly, the city is said to have got its name from this youthful local deity, U Shyllong (One Who Grows Naturally). The phrase ‘Khot Shyllong’ or ‘Call to Shyllong’ is often invoked in prayers during times of catastrophe or even personal misfortune.

Laitlum Canyon

Laitlum Canyon. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Perched atop the East Khasi Hills, the Laitlum Canyon is one of the most pristine and underexplored natural sites around Shillong. Laitlum literally means ‘The End of Hills’. The canyons provide a majestic view of the deep gorges and vast verdant valleys that lie beneath the hills. The convoluted rocky paths of the canyons occasionally lead to tiny slate-roofed houses. These small houses are stationed at great heights, along the very edge of the mist-shrouded ridges.

Tucked away in the upper reaches of the canyons is the Rasong hamlet with a small population of approximately 400 inhabitants. The people of Rasong continue to rely on an old ropeway pulley system to transport essential commodities and grains between the valley and the hamlet. On days when the old pulley system stops functioning, the locals carry traditional bamboo baskets on their back, filled with different kinds of commodities, up and down the steep hillside. The only route connecting the village with the nearest market is a long steep stairway, hewn out of the mountain, that comprises 3000 steps!
 

Mawphlang Sacred Forest

The Mawphlang Sacred Groves and monoliths within the forest. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Covering almost 192 acres, the Mawphlang Sacred Forest is located in the Mawphlang village, roughly 25 kilometres away from the capital city. The Khasi word ‘Mawphlang’ literally means ‘moss-covered stone’. The local Khasis have preserved this forest for over eight centuries and believe it to be the abode of their local deity, Labasa. It is popularly held that the deity takes the form of a leopard and protects the forest and the village. The forest has a massive collection of medicinal plants that can cure some lethal diseases. 

A significant characteristic of the forest is the prevalence of monoliths that are considered to be spots for animal sacrifices. The local Khasi inhabitants make animal offerings to their deity in order to make their wishes come true. A unique aspect of the sacred groves is the continued rule that not a single person can take anything out of the forest, be it a stone, a dead flower or even a severed log. The act of displacement reflects disrespect towards the deity, Labasa and it is believed that the perpetrator is punished with severe illness. 
 

U Lum Sohpetbneng

Gateway to Lum Sohpetbneng. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Located 17 kilometres from Shillong, the U Lum Sohpetbneng is a revered hill (Lum) of the Khasi-Jaintia community. Sohpetbneng literally means ‘Navel of Heaven’ and according to legend, Men and Gods were connected through a ‘golden bridge’: a divine pathway between Heaven and Earth, at this sacred hill. The seven founding clans collectively known as the Ki Hynniew Trep had descended from this ladder and settled in the Khasi-Jaintia Hills.

According to popular lore, people of these clans had descended from Heaven and begun cultivation on Earth but they never stayed overnight. However, one day, out of increasing ambition and greed, they chopped off the tree that served as the divine ladder, resulting in the seven clans being permanently stranded on Earth. The Supreme God (U Blei Trai Kynrad) took pity on the clans and eventually taught them to harvest various kinds of crops according to the changing seasons and the clans were eventually blessed with surplus produce. Thus, every year on the first Sunday of February, the Seng Khasi community treks to the spot where the Golden Ladder (Jingkieng Ksiar) is said to have existed, in order to perform thanksgiving rituals.

Between 2013-14, the discovery of a number of Neolithic pottery and agrarian tools in and around Lum Sohpetbneng, pushed back the history of settled communities in the region to as early as 1220 BCE. 
 

Umiam Lake

An aerial view of Umiam Lake. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Popularly known as Bara Pani or Dam Sait, the Umiam Lake is one of the largest artificial lakes of Meghalaya, situated 15 kilometres north of Shillong. Flanked by gorgeous sylvan hills and verdant Khasi pines, the primary catchment area of the Umiam Lake covers an area of almost 220 square kilometres, which includes Shillong and its adjacent areas and a part of the Ri Bhoi district. The lake was established by damming the Umiam river that originates from the Shillong peak, in the 1960s as part of  a hydroelectric power project. In fact, the Umiam Stage I powerhouse that became commercially operational in 1965, was the first ever reservoir-storage hydroelectric power project---the Umiam Umtru Hydroelectric Project---commissioned for North-East India. Subsequently, three more stages were built downstream. 

Besides generating hydroelectric power, the Umiam Lake makes significant contributions to downstream irrigation, fisheries and drinking-water facilities. Over the decades, the lake and its surrounding areas have become a major tourist spot and allows for exciting water sports like kayaking, water scooter rides and speed boating, as well as angling and camping. 
 

Ward’s Lake

Ward’s Lake. Image Source: Jayanta Chanda.

Built more than a century ago, the Ward's Lake is a pristine man-made lake at the heart of Shillong city. It is named after the then Chief Commissioner of Assam, Sir William Ward (1891-96) who had proposed and planned the lake. The design of the lake had been conceptualised by an eminent contemporary engineer, Fitzwilliam Thomas Pollock and the artificial lake is often popularly dubbed as ‘Pollock’s Lake’ or Nan Polok. The Lake was finally built by Colonel Hopkins in 1894.

The lake was to serve as a serene recreational spot for the British officials and their families. It is popularly believed that the picturesque surroundings of the lake had been developed by a local Khasi prisoner who wanted to offset the drudgery of his imprisoned life. 

The Ward’s Lake is known for its beautiful terraced flower beds, cobblestone pathways that encircle the lake, the wooden bridge over the lake and the surrounding lush greenery. During the autumn season, clusters of cherry blossoms bloom all around the lake area. A British-era lake, the Ward’s Lake continues to be a famous tourist spot in the present times.  

Phan Nonglait Park

Phan Nonglait Park, formerly known as Lady Hydari Park. Image Source: Wikimapia

The Phan Nonglait Park (previously called the Lady Hydari Park) was built in 1937. This British-era Park was to be a recreational ground for the officers and their families. Spread across an area of roughly 3.5 hectares in the heart of the city, this Japanese-style park is renowned for its beautiful rhododendrons, orchids, willows, rounded hedges, scattered ponds with colourful fishes and the stunning manicured lawns. Divided into three sections, Phan Nonglait Park houses a main garden area and park, a mini zoo (almost 2.5 hectares of the ground) and a Forest Museum.

The park was built by reclaiming a marshland under Sir Robert Neil Reid, who was the Governor of Assam between 1937 and 1942. It was originally named as the Lady Reid Pleasure Park in his wife’s honour. Subsequently, the park was christened as Lady Hydari Park between 1947 to 1948, when Sir Akbar Hydari became the Governor of Assam. Recently, in May, 2023, the park has been renamed as Ka Phan Nonglait Park in memory of the first Khasi woman freedom-fighter, Phan Nonglait, who had revolted against the British in the early 19th century and was a contemporary of the celebrated freedom fighter U Tirot Sing Syiem.

Ing Sad

Ing Sad at Smit. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

The Ing Sad at Smit is the traditional abode of the Priestess of the Khyrim Royal Family. Located 15 kilometres away from the Shillong city, this royal residence was established between 1903 and 1919. As per popular legend, the Khyrim royal family descended from an ancestress called Ka Pah Syntiew, whose offsprings became the first rulers of the Khyrim/Nongkrem state.

In the past, each Khasi state (Hima) had its own Ing Sad, but over the years, only a few have survived. The Ing Sad at Smit is one of the best-preserved royal residences. The Ing Sad at Smit is a testament to the indigenous forms of architecture and artforms. Since iron nails are considered taboo or ‘sang’ within the Khasi community, the 61 feet tall enduring structure is held together by wooden nails. Crowned with an imposing thatched roof made of dry leaves called U Tynriew, the floors, walls and veranda of the Ing Sad are laid out in wood with well-polished wooden panels.  

All Saints Cathedral

All Saints Cathedral. Image Source: Hemango A. Hiwale.

Standing tall at Shillong’s IGP point, the All Saints Cathedral is over a hundred years old. In August, 1874, the foundation stone of the church was laid by Lord Northbrook, the then Viceroy of India. In 1877, the church was consecrated by Bishop Edward Johnson of Calcutta, who dedicated it to ‘All Saints’. Unfortunately, the devastating earthquake of 1897 had almost entirely decimated the original church building. However, under the supervision of Mr. W. Arundale, the new church building was formally opened in June, 1902 and continues to function seamlessly to this day.

The structure and architecture of the church are a reflection of the British and Anglican architectural traditions. These include the high ceilings with antique lanterns hanging from wooden beams, the exquisite stained-glass windows brought all the way from England, and magnificent wood carvings and wooden floors. The building was constructed in the shape of a Cross and intricate wood carvings adorn both the interior and exterior spaces of the church. The magnificent wooden designs on the ceiling and roof were done by an expert Chinese craftsman, Mr. Leong. The walls of the church were designed specifically to withstand any calamities and are made of sand, lime and straw. The Church bells also have their own historical significance. The chime of four bells with the bass bell weighing upto 152 kgs were made in England, 1931. They were hung in a carillon next to the Church and were first rung on Christmas Day of 1931. 

Sprawling over five acres of land, the Church is home to lush green lawns, colourful flowers and tall trees, while the grand heritage pine tree adorns the garden area and is as old as the Church itself. The All Saints Cathedral is an integral part of the socio-cultural life of the people of Shillong and is a significant heritage of the city.  
 

Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians

Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

The Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians is one of the most majestic built heritages of Shillong that dates back to the 19th century. A church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Shillong, the Cathedral has a beautiful Grotto at the base in front and is flanked by stairs on both sides. While high arches and stained glasses adorn the cathedral, on the inside there are fourteen Stations of the Cross that have a terracotta relief depicting scenes of Christ’s suffering and death. These depictions are said to have been carved by craftsmen in Munich, Germany, while the stained glass windows had been brought from Grenoble, France in 1947.

Since the 1890s, the Cathedral has been managed by the Salvatorian missionaries of Germany, the Salesian priests and subsequently, by the priests of the Shillong Diocese. Located at Shillong’s Laitumkhrah, the Cathedral had witnessed two historic disasters: the Shillong earthquake of 1897 and the great fire of 1936 that had practically destroyed the original structure. The Cathedral was rebuilt in the modern Gothic style and its foundation was blessed on 25 October, 1936. To safeguard the new building from earthquakes, its foundation was made to rest on sand and has no linkage with the underlying rock. This was executed to ensure that during subsequent earthquakes, the sand acts as a shock-absorber and provides elasticity and mobility.

In 1980, on the occasion of the centenary year of the Catholic Church in North East India, the then Archbishop, the late Rt. Rev. Hubert D’Rosario, declared the Cathedral Church a shrine, duly approved to be a pilgrimage centre. The Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians is thus, a crucial cultural and spiritual seat of the people of Shillong and plays an important role in fostering communal harmony and bonding in the city.  

Motphran

Motphran. Image Source: Hemango A. Hiwale.

The Motphran is an octagonal memorial stone structure that stands at Shillong’s busy Mawkhar-Barabazar crossing. Mot is a Khasi term that means structure. ‘Motphran’ is a colloquial derivative of the term ‘Mot France’.  The memorial was erected in memory of the Khasi-Jaintia labourers who had rendered their services to the British during World War I in France. The British empire had recruited 2000 such labourers for overseas service in France. After the war, only seven or eight hundred of such labourers made it back home in December, 1917.

With the joint efforts of S.J. Lane, the then Deputy Commissioner of Khasi-Jaintia Hills, and the leaders of all Khasi-Jaintia states, funds were raised to build Motphran and finally, in 1927, a decade after the war, the memorial was constructed. Motphran continues to bear the names of the labourers on four sides along with the Latin words of the poet Horace, “Dulce et Decorum est pro Patria Mori” (It is sweet and honourable to die for one’s country).

Tripura Castle

Tripura Castle, Shillong. It is currently a heritage hotel called The Heritage Club-Tripura Castle. Image Source: Karthik Panigrahi.

Maharaja Bir Bikram of Tripura had arrived at Shillong at the age of sixteen for his military training and became deeply fond of the city. In the early 1920s, he had the Tripura Castle built in Shillong. This became the summer retreat of the royal Manikya dynasty of Tripura. Although it may not resemble a ‘castle’ in the more conservative European sense of the word, it embodies a distinct elegance of its own. The royal abode is renowned for its exquisite tiered gardens, vibrant orchids, bamboo groves and cherry blossoms. The underground bomb shelter and tunnel leads the way to the beautiful rose gardens which date back to the era of World War II.

The walls and rooms of the castle are dotted with spectacular artworks and antiques. Centuries old Chinese furniture, art deco, Victorian objects and upholstery seamlessly blend with the photographs and paintings of the royal family members. The massive private library has several rare and invaluable manuscripts. The castle was graced by the presence of Nobel laureate, Rabindranath Tagore who had shared a long and close association with four generations of the royal family. In fact, he had premised the plot of his literary works, Rajarshi and Mukut on the Tripura royal household.

The Tripura castle became the first ‘heritage’ hotel of North-East India and is today known as The Heritage Club: Tripura Castle.
 

Raj Bhavan

Raj Bhavan, the residence of the Governor of Meghalaya. Image Source: meggovernor.gov.in

The Raj Bhavan or the Governor’s House in Shillong is one of the most iconic architectural structures of Meghalaya. This seat of power has stood witness to the changing political tides of the country for over a century.

Established originally as a private residence for the Deputy Commissioner, Colonel Henry Stuart Bivar in the 19th century, the building was later transformed into the Chief Commissioner’s Residency after Shillong became the headquarters of the newly established Assam province in 1874. This Residency, however, was razed to the ground during the devastating earthquake of 1897.

The reconstruction of the new Government House became a major feat. The architectural plan for the building was completely revamped and the new building was made in an ‘earthquake-proof’ model. The erstwhile stone masonry was replaced with a wooden structure while the corrugated iron roof was supplanted by a roof made of teak shingles. By October 1903, the new Government House had been reconstructed. On December 6, 1951, the Government House was renamed ‘Raj Bhavan’ and was deemed to be the residence of the Governor of Meghalaya.

This spectacular heritage building is not only celebrated for its grand wooden structure, but also for its verdant lawns, aesthetic flower beds and old trees, beautiful fountains and monoliths (Mawbynna). The building houses an impressive library with over five thousand books, a museum of ancient artefacts, antique paintings, chandeliers and intricately carved wooden furniture. 

The Shillong Raj Bhavan is a spectacular administrative and cultural seat that has been graced by the presence of prominent figures such as the Dalai Lama, former Presidents, Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam, Pranab Mukherjee, former Prime Minister, I.K. Gujral and the current Prime Minister, Narendra Modi.
 

The Shillong Golf Club

The Shillong Golf Club overlooking the spectacular Shillong golf course. Image Source: Wikimapia.

The Shillong Golf course is one of the largest natural golf courses in Asia. Established in 1898 by a group of British Civil Service officers, the golf course stands at a height of 5200 feet. Resting on the sloping valleys of Shillong, it is bound by dense pine forests and dotted with gorgeous rhododendron trees. Although originally established as a 9-hole golf course, it was later transformed into an 18-hole course in 1924 by C.K. Rhodes and Captain Jackson, and became the first such course in Asia.

The Shillong golf course has the sixth deepest hole in India, lying at a depth of 540 metres. With tight fairways and a firm ground, this is a formidable golf course and is held in high regard by golfers from across the world.  The luxuriant field, accompanied by the serene weather has earned the course the title of ‘Gleneagles of the East’ at the United States Golf Association Museum.

The Shillong Golf Club is an iconic structure in itself. Overlooking the undulating golf course, the spectacular colonial wooden structures and carvings add an old-school charm to this 19th century club. Today, the club has affiliations with many of the renowned golf clubs across the world including Dubai, Australia, Nepal and Bangladesh.